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If you ask a Korean grandmother about food, she will talk about "Son-mat" (hand taste) and fermentation that takes months. If you ask a Korean teenager, they will talk about "Map-Dan-Jjan" (Spicy, Sweet, Salty) and pouring cheese on everything.
Korean cuisine is currently in a civil war between its healthy, balanced roots and its hyper-palatable, viral future. To understand Korea, you must taste both.
They call it "Daefrica" (Daegu + Africa). Yes, Daegu is the hottest city in South Korea. But the heat matches the passion of its people—and the spice level of its food. Located right in the middle of the Seoul-Busan KTX line, Daegu is often skipped. That is a mistake, especially if you love food and modern history.
Here is why you should hop off the train for 24 hours.
When Koreans think of "Food", they think of Jeonju. Designated a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, this city is the spiritual home of Korean cuisine. But the jewel in its crown is the Jeonju Hanok Village, a slow-living district with over 700 traditional houses.
Here is how to spend a perfect 24 hours eating your way through history.
If Seoul is the modern face of Korea, Gyeongju is its ancient soul. For 1,000 years (57 BC – 935 AD), this was the capital of the Silla Kingdom. Today, it is known as "the museum without walls." You can't dig the ground here without finding an artifact.
But Gyeongju isn't just old ruins. It has become one of the trendiest destinations for young Koreans, thanks to the cafe culture of Hwangnidan-gil.
